The Mystical Island of Siquijor: A 7-Day Adventure by Scooter
Timing is everything on Siquijor.
We learned this at 8 AM at Cambugahay Falls. Instagram shows those turquoise pools packed with tourists doing Tarzan swings, but we had the place almost to ourselves. All we could hear was waterfalls and birds. By 10 AM, when the tour vans showed up, we were already two waterfalls deep into our day.
That's the Siquijor secret. It's not about finding hidden spots (though we'll share a few). It's about going early, staying flexible, and renting a scooter to escape the preset routes.
Swimming alongside massive green sea turtles at Apo Island? That happened too. Guaranteed.
This 7-day guide gives you the full loop. Waterfalls, cliff jumps, churches built centuries ago, and that unforgettable turtle encounter. No guesswork required.
Getting There and Getting Around
We visited Siquijor in February 2024, and it remains one of our favorite Philippine islands.
Siquijor sits between Bohol, Cebu, and Negros, making it easy to slot into a longer Visayas trip. We ferried from Bohol and left for Cebu City afterward. For booking ferries, we used a mix of 12go.asia, Bookaway.com, and Oceanjet.net. Rome2rio.com is great for comparing routes, and KKday.com works well for packaged day trips like Apo Island.
The island is small (just 102 square kilometers), but public transport is limited to tricycles. We had to rent a scooter for the full week. We paid €80 for one bike, split between two of us. You need the freedom to chase sunsets. You need to detour to quiet beaches. And you definitely need to leave early for those pristine morning waterfalls.
Where We Stayed
We based ourselves at Tori's Backpacker's Paradise on Tubod beach in San Juan, the island's relaxed hub for travelers. It's centrally located and walkable, plus it has the best concentration of cafés, dive shops, and coworking spaces with reliable internet (essential if you're working remotely). Our room cost around €100 for the week for two people. Basic but clean, and right on the beach.
The best part? One morning we walked straight into the water from our accommodation, and we were completely alone. Just us and several sea turtles gliding through the clear water. There were no crowds, no tour boats, and we could swim on our own schedule. It was magical in a way the organized trips can't replicate. Tori's also has a restaurant and bar with incredibly affordable prices, cocktails were around ₱100 and meals like adobo chicken were under ₱200 when we visited.
San Juan is also where you'll find the best sunset bars and restaurants. Siquijor Town has more services (ATMs, pharmacies), but San Juan has the vibe.
The Budget Breakdown (for 2 people, 7 days)
- Accommodation: €100
- Scooter rental: €60
- Food & drinks: €200 (we splurged on cocktails, fresh juices, grilled fish, and sushi)
- Apo Island day trip: €80
- Entrance fees & guides: €20
Total: €460 (about €230 per person)
This was comfortable travel in the middle price range. You could cut costs by eating more local (think ₱200 meals instead of ₱400), skipping some boat trips, or staying in a dorm. Siquijor isn't expensive though, and those sunset cocktails were worth every peso.
The Fine Print
Cash is king. Most waterfalls, local eateries, and guides only take cash. ATMs exist, but they frequently run out on weekends. We withdrew enough for three days at a time and kept small bills (₱20, ₱50, ₱100) for entrance fees.
Night driving is sketchy. The coastal road is unlit, full of potholes, and populated by stray dogs. We made it a rule. If we were out past dark, we stayed in San Juan. That Salamandas dinner was our one exception. We rode back slowly, headlights on full beam, very aware of every shadow on the road.
Get an International Driving Permit (IDP) if you want to be fully legal. Checkpoints are rare, but they happen. Most rental shops don't ask, but the local police might.
The Highlights (5 Experiences You Can't Skip)
1. Cambugahay Falls at Dawn
Set your alarm (seriously). We arrived at Cambugahay at 8 AM and had the entire waterfall complex to almost ourselves for nearly two hours. The water was impossibly blue, the rope swings were free, and we could actually hear birds starting to call in the jungle around us.
By 10 AM, the tour groups arrived and the magic evaporated. If you want that photo (the one where you're alone under a turquoise cascade), go early. Entrance fee is around ₱20, and there's a small parking area at the top of the stairs.
2. Salamandas: When Plans Change for the Better
One morning we drove to Tubod beach with our snorkel gear, only to find it closed. Disappointed, we headed to Salamandas restaurant for drinks and kinilaw (Filipino ceviche). While we were relaxing, the staff struck up a conversation. They casually mentioned hosting a BBQ night in two days, open to hotel guests and visitors. Live music, a fire show, grilled seafood. They asked if we wanted to reserve a table.
We said yes immediately.
Two nights later, we arrived just before sunset and got a table almost right next to where the live music stage would be. The band was local, playing everything from classic rock to Filipino love songs, even Lady Gaga. The grilled tuna was cooked to order, and we ordered the Coco Grove Special (₱380), a ridiculously strong cocktail with seven different spirits mixed with tropical juices. Then the fire show started. Performers spun ropes with fireballs on the ends, dancing along the beach in the darkness. The whole night cost less than a single dinner in Panglao. It's now one of our favorite Siquijor memories, and it only happened because we stayed flexible.
Siquijor rewards improvisation. If your Plan A falls through, grab a drink and chat with the locals. You never know what invitation might come next.
3. Swimming with Sea Turtles at Apo Island
The boat ride to Apo Island takes about an hour, and you'll share it with maybe 15 other snorkelers. We were nervous about crowds. Would the turtles be skittish? Would we even see them?
Our guide dropped us in knee-deep water, pointed to a particular spot, and said, "Wait here." We adjusted our masks and looked down.
Within 30 seconds, a massive green turtle glided underneath us. Then another. And another. They weren't bothered by our presence at all. These weren't performers or enclosed creatures. They were just existing, moving through the water with this almost meditative grace, completely indifferent to the humans floating above them watching with open mouths.
Our guide had been strict about one thing before we got in the water. Apo Island only allows tours led by local residents, no outside operators. Stay at least 2-3 meters from the turtles at all times, no exceptions. Don't touch the coral, not even barely. The rules felt intense at first, but watching the turtles move with such confidence and ease, seeing the reef still vibrant, it clicked. Most snorkel spots let tourists be careless. Here, the locals had protected this place so fiercely that everything was still pristine.
What struck us most was the size. In photos, sea turtles look majestic. In person, they're enormous. Our guide spotted four turtles within the first 10 minutes. We must have seen a dozen total over the next two hours, drifting through coral gardens, occasionally glancing up at us like we were the mildly interesting ones.
One moment stands out. A turtle surfaced right next to my head to breathe, less than a meter away. I could see the barnacles on its shell, the defined patterns on its flippers, the ancient expression in its eyes. It took a breath, and slipped back under. It was over in seconds, but it's the kind of moment that rewires something inside you.
We booked through a local operator in San Juan for €80 (two people, including boat, guide, snorkel gear, and a surprisingly good lunch of grilled fish and rice). You can't miss with any of them. Apo Island is a protected sanctuary, so the turtles aren't going anywhere.
Just bring reef-safe sunscreen. And maybe a good underwater camera if you want to capture it. But honestly, the best photos are the ones you don't take because you're too busy staring.
4. Lugnason Falls (Zodiac Falls)
Cambugahay gets all the Instagram attention. Lugnason is the adventurer's pick. Also called Zodiac Falls because of the 12 small cascades upstream, this spot is wilder and less polished.
We hired a local guide (₱200) who took us to hidden pools. He showed us the best jumping spots and explained the local lore around each waterfall. The main pool is deep enough for cliff and swing jumps, and downstream, natural bathtubs are carved into the rock.
Bring a dry bag for your phone and some extra cash if you want to trek to all 12 falls. It's slippery, muddy, and absolutely worth it.
5. The Old Balete Tree: Siquijor’s Living Legend
Don't leave Siquijor without visiting the iconic Old Balete Tree. Over 400 years old, this sprawling tree is steeped in local legend and makes for a memorable stop. Its tangled roots form a natural spring pool, where you can dip your feet and enjoy a free "fish spa" as tiny fish nibble away. Fun, relaxing, and a little ticklish.
You'll find coconut water and souvenirs sold by friendly locals, adding to the relaxed atmosphere. Entrance costs just a few pesos, making it an easy and worthwhile break between waterfalls and beaches. Whether you're drawn by the stories or just the scenery, the Old Balete Tree captures the mystical spirit of Siquijor.
The Full 7-Day Plan (Without the Overwhelm)
We accidentally rode 20 minutes in the wrong direction because our offline map hadn't updated. Then we showed up to a waterfall later than expected and couldn't get a decent photo because of the crowd.
You don't need to repeat our mistakes.
We've mapped every stop (waterfalls, viewpoints, beaches, restaurants) and sequenced them so you're always moving with the light and the crowds. Want to hit Cambugahay at dawn and Salamandas for sunset? It's already timed.
Don't stress about the order. Just clone my trip below and adjust the dates.
Siquijor isn't mystical because of witch doctors or folklore. It's mystical because it still operates on island time, rewards curiosity, and hasn't been overrun yet. Go early, stay flexible, rent the scooter. And when the band starts playing at Salamandas, order the grilled tuna.
Trip TemplateSiquijor
View this trip to see the full itinerary, activities, and packing list.
View & Save to Your Trips