Croatia's Best Kept Secret: A Local's Guide to Dugi Otok (Avoid the Split Crowds)
We've been visiting Croatia almost our entire lives. Eight of those years were spent on Dugi Otok, two weeks every summer, returning to the same spot. Growing up in Slovenia, Croatia became our second home, and over that time we've explored most of the coast. Dugi Otok was different, and it kept pulling us back.
There are hidden coves accessible only by hiking over rocks, flat rock shelves perfect for sunset snorkeling, Yugoslav military tunnels carved into cliffs, and sea cliffs that rise 160 meters where you can cliff dive. Most people never find these spots. But after eight years of returning each summer, we started discovering what makes this island really special. Not just the places, but the rhythms and the relationships with locals that turn an ordinary trip into something you look forward to all year.
This is our guide to Dugi Otok (not as tourists, but as people who've spent enough time here to call it a ritual).
Getting There and Getting Around
Dugi Otok sits just off the coast of Zadar, making it one of the most accessible islands in the Zadar archipelago. The ferry from Zadar takes about 90 minutes and runs multiple times daily during summer. We booked through Jadrolinija (the national ferry company) and recommend reserving your car spot in advance if you're bringing a vehicle. The island is long and narrow (about 45 kilometers), so having a car gives you the freedom to chase sunsets and explore remote beaches.
The ferry arrives at Brbinj, the main port on the northern end of the island. From there, you can drive to most villages in under 30 minutes. Public transport exists but it's limited. If you're staying for 10 days, rent a car.
Where We Stayed
We stayed in an apartment near Camp Mandarino, on the western coast. After eight years of returning to the same spot, it's become our island home. The location is perfect. Close enough to the ferry port (about 15 minutes), but far enough from the casual tourist crowds. More importantly, the owner knows the island intimately and has become a friend. The snorkeling spot right near Camp Mandarino is excellent at golden hour, when the water is calm and the light is perfect. Over the years we've learned this is one of the best spots on the island for it.
Our apartment costs around €100 per night for two people during peak season. Basic but clean, with a terrace overlooking the bay. Every year, the owner invites us out for squid fishing in the evening. It's a tradition we look forward to all year. Most nights, the haul is good, and the owner prepares a stunning black risotto made from squid and/or cuttlefish ink. It's become the meal that defines summer for us.
The Budget Breakdown (for 2 people, 10 days)
- Accommodation: €1000 (€100/night)
- Ferry (round trip with car): €80
- Food & drinks: €650 (we splurged on seafood dinners and wine)
- Activities (kayak rental, boat trips): €150
- Entrance fees & parking: €50
This was comfortable travel without being expensive. You could cut costs by staying in a smaller village, eating more simply, or visiting in shoulder season (May or end of September) when prices drop significantly.
The Fine Print
Stick to main paths. We've encountered snakes in unexpected areas over the years. Most are harmless, but stay on marked trails and avoid pushing through bushes. Keep your eyes on the path, especially in rocky or scrubby areas. It's not common, but it happens.
Parking is competitive at popular beaches. Sakarun fills up by 9 AM in peak season. Arrive early or be prepared to park further away and walk. We learned this the hard way on day two.
Cash is preferred at local restaurants and beach bars. While credit cards work at most places, smaller establishments and beach bars often prefer cash. ATMs exist in Sali and Božava, but they're not everywhere.
The sea can be dangerous. Those caves and rock formations are stunning, but only explore them when the sea is dead calm. We skipped the Dragon's Eye cave on one day because of swell warnings. Safety first.
The Highlights (4 Experiences You Can't Skip)
1. Veli Rat Lighthouse Sunset
When Sakarun gets crowded (and it will), drive to the Veli Rat Lighthouse. The flat rock shelves to the west are perfect for sunset snorkeling, and the light here is otherworldly. You sit on the rocks and watch the sun sink into the open sea. The "Shipwreck Michelle" is visible from the shore, adding to the atmosphere. As the lighthouse beam begins sweeping across the water, you understand why this spot stays quiet while everywhere else fills up.
This became our favorite sunset spot on the island. No crowds, no noise, just the sound of waves and that iconic lighthouse beam.
2. Nature Park Telašćica (Cliff Diving & Kornati Views)
Dedicate a full day to exploring the southern tip of the island. This is where the land tears away into dramatic vertical drops and hidden saltwater wonders. The Stene (cliffs) plunge 160 meters into the sea. If you're brave enough and the water is calm, you can cliff dive from these heights. It's an adrenaline rush like nothing else.
Lake Mir is a saltwater lake connected to the sea through underground channels. The water is warmer than the open sea, perfect for a swim after hiking. You can see the beginning of the Kornati Islands, one of Croatia's most famous island complexes, from the viewpoints here.
We spent an entire day here, hiking the trails, swimming, and simply absorbing the raw beauty. This is Dugi Otok at its most wild and untamed.
3. Veli Žal Beach (Sunset Watching)
South of Soline, Veli Žal is Sakarun's wilder sibling. Famous for its white pebbles and deep blue water, this beach faces the open horizon and offers a stunning, unobstructed sunset. It's less developed than Sakarun, which is exactly why we love it.
The rustic beach bar serves chilled drinks and light local fare under a shaded canopy. Perfect for a quiet escape when you need a break from the more popular spots. We spent entire afternoons here, alternating between swimming and reading, with no agenda except watching the sunset.
4. The Final Night at Veli Rat Pier
Every year in the final days of our vacation, we do the same thing. We drive to Veli Rat and splurge on a full course seafood meal at one of the restaurants on the pier. It's become our ritual.
You sit right on the walkway beside the sea, and the sun sets over the open water. Locals bring their families. Fishermen sit nearby with their catch. It doesn't feel touristy even though you're eating well and paying for it.
The food is impossibly fresh. Grilled octopus, scampi, white fish caught that morning. And as the sun sinks, you realize why you keep coming back.
After eight summers, this meal has become the thing we anticipate most. Not the beaches or the hikes, but this specific evening. The light, the food, the knowing we'll be back next year to do it again.
A Bonus: Squid Fishing at Night (If You're Staying Long Enough)
One of our favorite traditions happened almost by accident. The owner of our apartment mentioned they were going squid fishing one evening and asked if we wanted to join. We said yes.
We spent the evening in a small boat with just a few lights and some simple handlines. It's surprisingly meditative. You wait, you feel for the tug, you pull. The squid come to the lights, and if you're patient and quiet, you catch them.
Most nights we were lucky with the haul. And here's the magic part. The next day, the apartment owner would prepare a stunning black risotto made from the squid or cuttlefish ink. It's one of those dishes that only exists in a handful of restaurants, and only if you know someone.
This isn't something you can just book as a tourist activity. But if you're staying at a local apartment and you connect with the owner, mention that you'd be interested. You might get invited along. And if you do, that meal will stick with you.
The Full 10-Day Plan (Without the Overwhelm)
After eight years of returning to the same spot, we know Dugi Otok differently than a typical visitor. We know which beaches fill up at what times. We know the owner of our apartment will invite us squid fishing. We know the light at Veli Rat in late August. We know which paths have snakes and which don't.
This guide is organized into a 10-day route that sequences everything so you're moving with the light and avoiding crowds. Want to hit the calm waters for morning snorkeling and catch sunset at Veli Rat? It's already timed. Need to know the best parking strategy or where the fishermen eat? It's there.
Don't stress about the order. Just clone my trip below and adjust the dates.
Dugi Otok isn't just another Croatian island. It's a place where you can still find solitude, where the best experiences come from returning year after year. We go back because we're not tourists anymore. We're part of a rhythm. An annual ritual where the owner knows our names and saves a table for us on the last night. If you come once, you might appreciate it. If you come back, you'll understand why we can't stop.
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